منابع مشابه
Swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach
New experimental laboratory data are presented on swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach, approximating the conditions at the crest of a beach berm or inter-tidal ridge-runnel. The experiments provide a measure of the uprush sediment transport rate in the swash zone that is unaffected by the difficulties inherent in deploying instrumentation or sediment trapping techniques...
متن کاملEdge waves along a sloping beach
Standing on a gently sloping straight beach, it is a matter of observation that various waveforms propagate on the surface of the sea. Among these we find edge waves water waves that progress along the shoreline. These waves, often difficult to visualize (this has, probably, prevented the regarding of this waveform as important for a long time), are coastal trapped, i.e. their amplitude is maxi...
متن کاملConservation Laws for Shallow Water Waves on a Sloping Beach
Shallow water waves are governed by a pair of non-linear partial differential equations. We transfer the associated homogeneous and non-homogeneous systems, (corresponding to constant and sloping depth, respectively), to the hodograph plane where we find all the non-simple wave solutions and construct infinitely many polynomial conservation laws. We also establish correspondence between conserv...
متن کاملAnalytical solutions for forced long waves on a sloping beach
= ∂f ∂t2 for x > 0, in which Y (x, t) denotes an unknown variable, f (x, t) a prescribed forcing function and b a positive constant. This equation has been used to describe landslidegenerated tsunamis and also long waves induced by moving atmospheric pressure distributions. We discuss particular and general solutions. We then compare our results with numerical solutions of the same equation and...
متن کاملHydraulic Sorting of Heavy-mineral Grains by Swash on a Medium-sand Beach
Hydraulic sorting of detrital mineral grains in the swash zone was investigated using data on sedimentology and flow dynamics obtained from Fishermans Beach, on the east coast of Australia. The beach is characteristically reflective, displaying a steep beach face composed of medium sand and virtually no surf zone. Samples were taken from two beds enriched in heavy minerals, and from the adjacen...
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ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: Journal of Geophysical Research
سال: 1995
ISSN: 0148-0227
DOI: 10.1029/95jc00232